Voron 3D printers have become very popular in recent years among tech enthusiasts and tinkerers. If you’re looking to build your own customized printer, Voron’s open-source designs offer reliability, precision, and speed.
Within the Voron ecosystem, two models stand at the top for features and quality: the Voron 2.4 and the newer Voron Trident. They share the same CoreXY gantry system for fast, accurate XY motion. But their Z axes differ considerably.
Keep reading as we explore what sets these printers apart in terms of mechanical design, assembly process, available mods, print quality, cost, and other key factors. If you want help deciding which Voron best matches your needs and skill level, this comparison should assist!
Key Takeaways
Before we go into the details, I want to summarize the main points covered around the Voron Trident vs Voron 2.4 comparison:
- Both printers offer excellent reliability, speed, and enclosure for technical filaments. Core differences come down to mechanical design tradeoffs.
- The Trident uses 3 lead screws to move the heated print bed itself on the Z axis. This simplifies construction but limits max height. Thermals stay consistent though.
- The 2.4 features a “flying gantry” lifted by 4 synchronized belted Z motors. More challenging build for beginners but enables bigger prints and gantry leveling.
- Print quality expectations are outstanding on both assuming proper assembly, calibration, and slicing. Lots of community knowledge exists around both platforms.
- Electronics can be heavily customized on either printer thanks to Klipper firmware and separate control boards like Raspberry Pis. Enables great web interfaces too.
- Baseline costs tend to run $1000+ for most builds, highly variable. The Trident involves slightly less material due to its simpler mechanics so may cost a bit less in total.
- While intricate, assembling a Voron from parts is very rewarding and develops helpful maker skills. We recommend the Trident as an easier starting point, but the 2.4 offers its own appeal.
Both are amazing printers – choose based on your experience comfort, budget, and interests!
A Quick Overview of Each Machine
Let’s briefly introduce both models before diving into the details:
Voron 2.4
This printer features the iconic “flying gantry” – where the print head zips around above a fixed heated bed. 4 independent Z motors mounted on the gantry itself raise and lower it, connected via a system of belts and pulleys.
This floating setup allows fast head speeds, unlimited Z height expandability, and advanced options like tilt adjustment. But it also increases overall complexity a bit.
Voron Trident
As the name hints, this newer design utilizes 3 lead screws to move the print bed itself up and down below a fixed gantry. Stepper motors at each screw turn-threaded rods to provide precise Z-axis motion.
With fewer moving parts, the Trident simplifies assembly and day-to-day use. It also enhances thermal consistency within the enclosed chamber. The lead screws do limit maximum height, however.
Now let’s do a deeper analysis of how these two Vorons differ across some key factors:
Print Volume Size Options
Vorons are designed to be fully customized, but there are 3 recommended sizes for both the 2.4 and Trident:
| Size | Trident (X/Y/Z mm) | 2.4 (X/Y/Z mm) |
|---|---|---|
| Small | 250 x 250 x 250 | 250 x 250 x 220 |
| Medium | 300 x 300 x 250 | 300 x 300 x 280 |
| Large | 350 x 350 x 250 | 350 x 350 x 330 |
Given the Trident’s lead screw Z axis, builds taller than 250 mm on that dimension could start to exhibit issues like binding or precision loss. So sticking to the recommended sizes is advised.
That said, 250 mm should give you ample vertical clearance for most prints! And expanding limits even further is possible on the Voron 2.4 thanks to its belted Z setup.
Main Motion Systems: belts vs lead screws!
Stepper motors control movement on the X, Y, and Z axes. For the XY directions, Vorons use the CoreXY system where two motors work together with a pulley and belt mechanism to guide the print head rapidly and accurately left-to-right and front-back.
It’s the Z axis that really sets these two models apart…
Trident: Z-Axis Lead Screws
Three independent motors individually turn long threaded rods that raise and lower the heated print bed. Lead screws provide precise, smooth vertical travel perfect for a moving bed.
Having no belts to stretch or motors to perfectly sync makes calibration easier. And using the bed itself for Z helps maintain even chamber temps.
Possible downsides include potential binding (if tolerances drift over time) and limited scale-up in height. Lubricating the screws helps minimize issues.
2.4: Flying Z Axis Gantry
Four synchronized steppers mounted along vertical extrusions on the moving gantry control its height via belts and pulleys. Working together, they quickly send the print head up or down.
No lead screw limitations here – you can keep adding rail length to build as tall as needed! And having the bed fixed while the lighter gantry moves may enable higher overall print speeds.
Of course, perfectly calibrating 4 points instead of 3 also makes getting that first layer dialed in trickier as belts stretch from use. Extra tuning care is advised.
So as you can see, the bed leveling procedures will differ quite a bit between these machines…
Auto Bed Leveling Workflows
Consistent first-layer adhesion is critical for print success. Vorons accomplish this through automated routines that probe various points along the bed, making micro-adjustments to flatten everything.
Both utilize end-stop switches for Z-homing and setting nozzle clearance over the bed. Beyond that:
Voron 2.4 Gantry Leveling
Quad gantry probing measures 4 locations, tweaking each Z motor until proper uniformity is achieved. With the bed stationary, its true surface becomes the baseline plane.
Gantry corrections are stored allowing z-hop moves during printing for added clearance on travel moves.
Voron Trident Bed Leveling
The fixed gantry is presumed flat. 3-point Z tilt probing then matches the bed itself to that plane based on lead screw positions.
In either case, you get great first-layer consistency. But dialing things in may be quicker on the Trident with fewer factors changing print-to-print.
Extruder & Hotend Options
Bowden arrangements are supported if desired, but most Vorons utilize direct drive with the extruder motor right on the moving print carriage – usually the excellent Stealthburner design from Voron. This increases extrusion precision and enables faster printing overall.
As for Hotend, you can pick from a wide selection of all-metal offerings including:
- Slice Engineering Mosquito (very lightweight)
- Phaetus Dragon (great for high-temps)
- E3D Revo ecosystem (easy nozzle swaps)
- Many more!
Voron’s flexible and open nature means you choose what works best for you. Both main models can handle fancy additions like nozzle scrubbers or wipers too.
And if you ever want to get really crazy, installing a filament tool changer for multi-material capabilities is simpler with the Trident’s fixed gantry.
Electronics, Software, and Control Choices
Electronics powering a Voron typically include:
- High-powered 32-bit mainboard (SKR, Octopus, etc)
- Raspberry Pi or similar secondary microcomputer
- 7” LCD touchscreen display (optional)
- And other various componentry
Having a designated controller unit allows running advanced Klipper firmware that offloads processing overhead for insane print speeds.
Klipper also enables rock-solid Z hop, pressure advance, input shaping, and hundreds of community plug-ins for advanced functions.
For control, Klipper works great with intuitive web interfaces like Fluidd or Mainsail. These let you manage everything right from a browser:
- Print job start, stop, and monitoring
- Temps, steppers, motors
- Bed visualizer
- Macros
- Timelapse
- Notifications
- And much more!
Between the customizable tool heads and advanced software capabilities, both the Voron 2.4 and Voron Trident offer extensive overall customization options.
Cost Comparison
Pricing has a wide range depending on how DIY you go. Some rough estimates:
| Printer | Self-source Build | Budget Kit | Premium Kit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Voron 2.4 | $1,000-$1,500 | ~$750 | ~$1,600 |
| Voron Trident | $800-$1,300 | ~$580 | ~$1,400 |
Given its mechanical elegance and prestige, builders tend to invest more heavily in customizing or “blinging” their 2.4 installs too. But baseline costs are fairly comparable either way.
Just ensure your budget allows for any special mods or aesthetic touches you might want beyond electronics!
Assembly Complexity Discussion
Because they’re composed primarily of 3D printed parts, Vorons require full hands-on building before use. How tricky is each to construct for new owners?
Voron Trident: Easier Build Procedure
The general consensus within the Voron community is that the Trident offers a more beginner-friendly assembly process. Several reasons why:
- Fewer motors, and belts – less synchronization complexity
- No gantry squaring/leveling to deal with
- Lead screws avoid tricky belt tuning
- Improved build documentation as a newer system
This makes the Trident a great starting point for fresh Voron builders who want to develop core competencies before tackling heavier mods.
Voron 2.4 Rewards Advanced Skills
Alternatively, those with more 3D printer modding experience under their belt may appreciate the 2.4’s intricacies:
- Iconic gantry appearance attracts tinkerers
- Multi-point belt tensioning is very satisfying when mastered
- Additional problem-solving during assembly & calibration
Because of its floating bed and quad belt drive, you should expect extra tuning and potential reworks to get optimal first layers. Patience is rewarded however with strong community knowledge around the platform.
Either build ultimately comes down to preference on the desired challenge level!
Wrapping Up – Which is Best For You?
Like specialized racecars, Vorons aim for maximum performance and precision within their domain. As covered here, the Trident and 2.4 take differing design approaches to accomplish shared goals.
Determining which suits you best involves some soul-searching around priorities:
Voron 2.4 Strengths
- Proven long-term mechanical reliability
- No height restrictions. Scale your ambition!
- Potential for faster overall print speeds
- Striking aesthetic when built cleanly
Voron Trident Benefits
- Smoother assembly procedure
- Excellent thermal regulation
- Beginner-friendly construction & use
- Lower baseline costs
- Advanced tool changing readiness
With such strong community support around both platforms, you really can’t go wrong performance-wise. Identify which areas matter most day-to-day, research what potential mods intrigue you, and then dive in!
If you ask me –
If simplicity and affordability are a priority for you, the Voron Trident is a great option. However, if advanced features and customization are needed, the Voron 2.4 may be the better choice.
We hope examining the Voron Trident vs Voron 2.4 comparison here provides the insight needed to pick your perfect model with confidence. Thanks for reading – happy printing!
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the print quality different between models?
In most cases, both printers are capable of exceptional quality with properly tuned profiles. Variables like firmware settings, hotend choice, filament properties, and slicer tweaks will far outweigh minor mechanical differences. Expect fantastic prints from either Voron!
Which is better for fast printing?
While the 2.4’s flying gantry enables high XY speeds, the Trident’s enclosed thermal consistency likely allows pushing max volumetric output more easily. Both support extremely quick printing once configured though – over 200 mm/s is possible!
What sizes can I build for each?
The recommended build dimensions for the Trident models are 250 x 250 x 50 mm for small, 300 x 300 x 250 mm for medium, and 350 x 350 mm for large. The Z height is limited.
For the 2.4 models, the sizes are 250 x 250 x 220 mm for small, 300 x 300 x 280 mm for medium, and 350 x 350 x 330 mm for large. This provides more flexibility in the Z dimension.
How difficult are they to assemble for beginners vs experts?
The Trident’s more straightforward process makes it friendlier for initial builders. The 2.4 involves more intricate gantry belt tuning that rewards advanced troubleshooting skills but isn’t impossible for newbies when taking things slowly.
What should I budget for each as a starting point?
Expect around $800-$1500 for most DIY builds depending on selected components. Off-the-shelf kit offerings from LDO and others cost $1400-$1600 typically. So plan $1000+ either way!
